Paraiba tourmaline

What’s in a name? A lot of money, if you’re a purist

In 1989, Brazilian miners in the state of Paraíba discovered a new variety of copper-bearing (or cuprian) elbaite tourmaline prized for its singular neon blue. They dubbed it Paraíba, and the market, especially in Japan, went mental for it. Prices shot up to $25,000, $35,000, even $50,000 per carat. A new discovery of cuprian tourmaline in Nigeria in 2001 yielded some remarkably beautiful stones that resembled traditional Paraíba goods, but according to most observers lacked their electric quality. In time, another deposit was found in Mozambique, no surprise given that Brazil and southern Africa all formed as part of the same geological belt. The problem, of course, is in how the goods have been marketed. Dealers specializing in the African material began calling it Paraíba tourmaline, effectively ruling that appearance and chemistry trump origin. Fans of the Brazilian gems, fiercely protective of their provenance, argued that because Paraíba is a place, its use should be restricted to tourmaline that originated there. Some labs sided with the former; others with the latter. The market has since established an uneasy truce. The Brazilian stones, though scarce, still fetch top dollar, while the African stones, available in sizes of 80-plus carats, max out at about $10,000 per carat. In the aftermath of the controversy, one thing is clear: the gem trade’s Achilles’ heel is its inconsistent use of nomenclature; future conflicts are all but guaranteed.

Brazilian beauties Lexington earrings with Paraiba tourmaline and diamonds in platinum, $36’750, by Mish New-York. The Windex blue gem figures prominently in the trade’s ongoing debate over nomenclature.

Loose stone image provided by ICA