By Cynthia Unninayar
When the final results were tallied, there was good reason for
cautious optimism at the September’s “Choice” event the third in the
trilogy of jewellery trade shows held in the historic Italian town
of Vicenza.
According to show management, the show’s final numbers exceeded all
expectations during these difficult times for the Italian - and global-jewellery
sector. The most positive sign was the 28 percent increase in buyers compared
to the September 2008 event. The show registered an attendance of 9,413
from Italy and 4,257 from abroad, for a total of 13,670 buyers who came to see
the products offered by some 1,400 exhibitors (75 percent Italian, 25 percent
from around the world).
“We are satisfied with the result,” commented Domenico Girardi, the General
Manager of Fiera di Vicenza, “bearing in mind that the buyers at the September
fair traditionally come from Italy, in particular, and from Europe, in general.
These are the markets that order quantities ahead of the end-of-year festivities.
Compared with Choice 2008, the European nations with the highest number
of buyers this year included Spain (an increase of 7.4 percent), France (up
43 percent) and Germany (up 9.74 percent). The Greek presence was also
highly significant.” Girardi added that, for confirmation of the reawakening of
the sector, it would be necessary to wait for the performance of Vicenzaoro
First, which will begin on January 16, 2010.
With an emphasis on the Made in Italy label, Italian designers have been
facing the challenges of the current economic downturn with determination,
thanks to a wealth of new products, innovative
marketing strategies, and new technologies. Yet,
one of the main variables on which the
sector’s performance depends is the
price of gold. “In general, rather than
the absolute value of the precious
metal, it is its volatility that generates
difficulty for production companies
in managing their supplies and pricing,”
explained Girardi.
| “Infinity Ribbon” earrings in pink gold, diamonds, and gemstones by Io Si & Gemstone and diamond “Ninfea” ring in pink gold by Favero. |
Design Directions
The price and volatility in gold prices has led to
an increased number of lightweight designs. New
technologies permit jewellers to create innovative hollow
and wire pieces, while laser cutting offers solutions
for innovative open work. In this way, a bigger but stylish look
can be obtained for a smaller price. Another consequence of
the volatile gold market is the use of mixed media combining,
for example, wood, leather, bronze, and multi-coloured titanium
with diamonds and coloured gemstones to create original and
contemporary styles. Silver has regained its royal status and has been adopted
by many upmarket brands, which are creating fashionable designer collections
in the white metal.
| Silver bracelet by Nuovegioie. |
In terms of style, the brands at Choice exhibited many design directions.
Necklaces tended to be long, loopy, and layered, with lots of links. Stackable
bangles came in a variety of colours and designs, but wide airy cuffs were also
present. A perennial favourite, the hoop earring was seen in its pure round form
as well as in modifi ed shapes set with gemstones and diamonds.
Also seen at this year’s Choice were the contrasts of sombre, less ostentatious
pieces—recession oblige—with brighter more colourful pieces that symbolized
renewed hope for the future. Jewellery featuring rough diamonds, textured
designs, and organic and freeform shapes, as well as various uses of circles
and ovals, were also in evidence.
In terms of colour, many Italian designs incorporated gemstones, of all sorts and
hues, into their creations, in gold, platinum, and silver. Quartz, citrine, amethyst,
onyx, topaz, tourmaline, and agate were used in a wide variety of designs, while
the more traditional emeralds, sapphires, and rubies were present in elegant and
sophisticated models paired with the sparkle of white and fancy diamonds.
 |
| Flex-It bracelets in gold and gemstones by Fope & “Royal Star” ruby earrings with diamonds, white gold, and a line of blackened rhodium by Picchiotti
|
Gem World and Glamroom
For the fi rst time, the fair dedicated a special
section to gemstones. Called “Gem World,” this new
area, established in cooperation with Assogemme
Association, grouped together a number of gem dealers
from around Italy and the world who showcased a wide
variety of colourful jewels. One of the star attractions
was the special display of a large aluminium plate faced
with quartzite, painted and decorated with a micro-mosaic
of precious stones, which epitomized a marriage of jewellery
and contemporary art. Organized by Italian gem dealer Cesari
& Rinaldi, this work of art, entitled “Tondo Cesari 2009,” was
crafted by Milanese artist Bruto Pomodoro. To create this
jewellery art masterpiece, Pomodoro used a total of 2000 carats
of gemstones. The stylized and colourful plate is valued at €400,000
(approximately $600,000).
| “Tondo Cesari 2009” plate with 2,000 carats of gemstones, crafted by
Milanese artist Bruto Pomodoro |
This year, also for the fi rst time, Glamroom was held inside the main
fair next to the prestigious Hall B1. Present were a number of local and
foreign designers and artists who presented a wide
range of innovative and colourful products made
in a variety of materials. Among them was Italian
designer, Raffaella Mannelli, with her collection
of stunning pieces made of polished black ebony
and gold, while, at the other end of the colour
spectrum, German brand Bastian displayed a
selection of modern silver creations. In keeping
with the recent move towards sustainable and ecofriendly
jewellery, a new Italian company, EcoJewel,
showcased its pieces made from precious, recycled
materials (gold and silver from old jewellery and
manufacturing scraps) and Eco-Gems (synthetic products
from Switzerland with the same physical and chemical
characteristics as natural stones). The company says
that its activities have Zero Impact® on the environment,
certifi ed by LifeGate.
 |
| Silver pendants by Glamroom exhibitor Bastian & Earrings made from recycled silver by EcoJewel |
Gioiello Italiano
During the Choice event, the Italian Association of the Chambers of
Commerce (Assicor) presented a project called Gioiello Italiano, a strategic
integrated communications plan to support and enhance the entire
Italian jewellery industry. This important initiative has two s p e c i f i c
objectives: 1) to present a coordinated image that will promote
the values of Italian-made jewellery in foreign markets,
and 2) to create and design new promotional
tools in order to stimulate jewellery sales in the
domestic market.
The next fair, Vicenzaoro First, will start January
16, 2010 as the jewellery industry continues to
look for positive signs.
[www.vicenzaoro.org->http://www.vicenzaoro.org/uk/index.php]
