When we think of pioneers in the jewellery industry, one name certainly comes to mind—that of Salvador J. Assael. Known in the trade as “The Pearl King,” his achievements are many, including introducing the Tahitian pearl to the world in 1976. Another first, an Assael piece broke the world record in October 1992 for the highest price paid for a pearl necklace at Sotheby’s.

The recipient of numerous awards, he is a founding member of the South Sea Pearl Consortium and past president of the Tahitian Pearl Association. In recognition for his contributions, the Tahitian government awarded Assael the title of “Chevalier dans l’ordre de Tahiti Nui” in 1998, the only American to be so honoured. Assael was also instrumental in getting certification of the Tahitian Natural Colour Cultured Pearl by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). GIA also honoured him by naming the grand atrium in its Carlsbad headquarters “The Salvador J. Assael Grand Atrium.”

Madeleine Stancescu, Director of Advertising, Marketing, and Sales for Assael International and a person involved with many other aspects of the business, including providing input on designs aimed at the youth market, interviewed “The Pearl King” for CIJ Trends & Colours. In this rare interview, Salvador J. Assael talks about his passion for pearls, how he grew his family business into a successful international brand, and what he feels are the next trends in pearl jewellery.

Madeleine Stancescu: What took you into the world of pearls in the first place?

Salvador J. Assael: My family. Assael International is a family business that was established in Europe in the early 1900s. My ancestors were noted merchants in the diamond, precious stone, and pearl trades. My own passion for pearls and precious gems comes from having grown up in Italy, where I studied ancient history, archaeology, mineralogy, and gemmology. My father, James Assael, was an Italian pearl dealer. During World War II, the American army was in Europe and needed waterproof watches. Through his contacts in Switzerland, my father was able to supply this demand. But after the war, he was left with thousands of these Swiss watches. Herealized there was a demand for them in Japan, but the Japanese had no money. Being very entrepreneurial, my father bartered the watches in exchange for pearls. I joined him and thus began my pearl career. After our move to the USA, we specialized in South Sea pearls.

MS: How did you get involved with the Tahitian pearl?

SJA: This adventure started in 1973 when I met a Frenchman in Saint-Tropez, who told me about an atoll he purchased in French Polynesia and how the turquoise waters of that region produced blacklipped oysters called Pinctada margaritifera, which produced black pearls. He persuaded me to go into business with him, and that is how it began. The first year’s pearls were not so good, but the following year, they were better.

MS: Was it difficult to get the black Tahitian pearl accepted?

SJA: Their colour was certainly different than the traditional white pearls, but they were so beautiful that I knew they would catch on. I took several strands to my friend Harry Winston to see if he would be interested. He bought them all. Quite the visionary, he made magnificent jewellery from them and put them in his Fifth Avenue window with an outrageous price tag. And, he sold them all! I then began to advertise these dark pearls in glossy publications and soon, throughout Manhattan, Tahitian pearls adorned the necks of the city’s most affluent divas. As you may remember, Elizabeth Taylor’s perfume, “Black Pearl,” originated with the popularity of the black Tahitian pearls.

MS: Assael is so well known for its strands of South Sea white pearls…

SJA: Yes, but we specialize in all types and colours, including the golden pearl, whose popularity is increasing. Assael International has always been one of the biggest buyers at the pearl auctions, letting us accumulate a vast inventory of the very finest qualities. In the 1960s, the highest price paid for a cultured pearl necklace was about $50,000. Thanks in large part to the quality we carry and our designs, that price rose to $2,300,000 in the early 1990s.

MS: What will be the next pearl trend?

SJA: Trends have changed greatly. From the basic white strands, all sorts of pearls are prized now. Over the last decade, there has also been a resurgence in baroque pearls in creative designs. As our brand approached the new millennium, we began adding new collections that incorporate diamonds, moonstones, denim, wood, rubber, and other gemstones to give a more contemporary look to the classic pearl. Nadya Esenyan, who has directed the development of Assael International’s jewellery line for over 20 years, has created elegant collections that pair various colours of tourmalines with pearls. And you, Madeleine, provide valued insight for modern designs aimed at a younger demographic. In terms of future trends, pearls will be used in all sorts of combinations. The golden pearl will also continue to gain in popularity as more and more designers around the world use this precious golden gem in their creations.

MS: What do you see as the future of your company after you retire?

SJA: Assael International will continue to be the world leader in South Sea and Tahitian Natural Coloured Cultured Pearls. I have a young family and a dedicated and loyal staff. Most have been with me for more than 20 years— some for 60 years. They will all assure that the Assael legacy will continue for many more generations to come!

www.assael.com