ubogas takes its name from the flexible pipes used to carry pressurised gas in the 1920s. Bvlgari transformed that industrial reference into a jewellery signature, interlocking strips of gold without soldering to create supple coils. The latest additions explore how this construction can accommodate changing volumes.
An asymmetric necklace, bracelet and pair of earrings draw inspiration from a Serpenti Tubogas bracelet-watch dating to around 1974. Their yellow gold mesh widens towards sculptural geometric ends, illuminated by brilliant-cut pavé diamonds. Achieving this progression required a bespoke graduated framework, introducing construction methods drawn from high jewellery into the core Tubogas collection.
The challenge extends beyond the outline: the changing proportions must retain the mesh’s characteristic flexibility. On the single-coil bracelet, an open construction wraps around the wrist, placing the asymmetric motif at the front. The necklace requires more than 17 hours of craftsmanship and incorporates a sliding clasp for adjusting its length.
A separate necklace develops the collection’s three-gold vocabulary, joining an existing bracelet. Hand-pulled strands bring yellow, white and rose gold together within a flat mesh, allowing contrasting tones to define an otherwise restrained composition.
Rounded yellow gold half-hoop earrings complete the five-piece launch, pairing with an existing ring. Across these interpretations, the interest lies in the relationship between structure and movement: gold acquires volume while preserving the suppleness that distinguishes Tubogas.
