hrough the collections recently unveiled by the Houses and independent designers, two main trends emerge.
The first celebrates an odyssey shaped by landscapes, lush vegetation and treasures gleaned during the journey. The second explores a more abstract style, where light, volumes and geometric forms become the language of resolutely contemporary jewellery pieces.
Here’s an overview of the season’s most standout creations.
From sun-soaked shores to verdant gardens, the appeal of exotic getaways sings through this jewelled odyssey. Inspired by a fairytale nature, these creations dovetail organic forms with generous volumes, fashioning a landscape where the material is instilled with a sense of wonder.
Ashaha’s Kahina ring boasts a bold, shield-like sculptural design. A tribute to the legendary Berber warrior queen it is named after, the piece praises courage, resilience and the freedom to chart one’s own course. Its satiny surface, adorned with lines of diamonds, glints with a controlled light that emphasises its architectural presence.
With Isyce, Mashandy draws on the heritage of the first Mediterranean civilisations. Its ring engraved with ancient Greek-inspired characters conjures up the great foundational epics, while a 3.74-carat natural sapphire captures light like a fragment of sky.
La Brune & La Blonde opts for understated elegance with its magnetic Honeymoon necklace. In the centre of a perfectly round gold disc sits a shimmering diamond, as if suspended in the light. Evoking by turns the sun, a star or a talisman, the piece harnesses the force of elementary geometry to focus the gaze on a single point of brilliance.
Long before guiding travellers, the sun was elevated through belief systems, rituals and symbols of power. From one civilisation to another, it has inspired myths and finery steeped in symbolism. The Fuego cuff by Sàntibé alludes to a radiant ceremonial adornment, its central disc gleaming with green and gold highlights that naturally catch the light.
Taking its cue from the amulets of yesteryear, the Chrys choker by Lotta Djossou is worn like a contemporary talisman. Infused with vibes of nature and Art Nouveau, its composition of golden scrolls is also reminiscent of the large ceremonial breastplates and protective adornments found throughout cultures.
The journey ends with Raphaëlle Coqblin’s Crush Nova ring, where a star set with diamonds surrounds an indicolite gemstone. A piece juxtaposing divine symbolism with royal treasures.
Over the course of this odyssey, nature is increasingly writ large. From Mediterranean scenery to imaginary gardens, jewellery is graced with plant forms that extol the profusion of life. With the Pinède ring, D1928 pays tribute to the majestic umbrella pines of the French Riviera. Crafted in layers around white cultured pearls, the gold piece is an ode to the distinctive shape of this iconic tree along the Mediterranean shores.
Further ahead, the vegetation grows more exuberant with Dorothée Potocka’s L’Horizon Orange. Demonstrating the rigato hand-engraving technique, the ring unfurls its golden petals around spheres of Mediterranean red coral.
Like precious berries or mysterious fruits hanging from an imaginary corolla, they seem to blossom in a fanciful garden.
Mellerio exudes a nature that springs to life at the gentlest breeze. Inspired by Marie-Antoinette’s favourite flower, the Le Petit Cactus Vanille ring showcases five rose gold corollas set with white, yellow and brown diamonds. The patterns seem to float around the finger, connected only by the frame, such that we feel we are witnessing the opening of a flower at different stages of its growth.
Botanical forms reach new heights here with Mélusine Poudre d’Escampette by Garnazelle. Studded with gold granules, the frame embraces the opulent volumes of pink tourmalines in a composition suggestive of a precious bud ready to open.
The Lilas ring by Mathon Paris bursts through this botanical odyssey in a bouquet of light. Movement arises not out of emptiness but out of growth. Ornate with yellow gold, diamonds, yellow sapphires and brown diamonds, the piece is set with myriad independent bezels united in a bouquet by an invisible link.
Any odyssey is also a quest for wonders. Iridescent shells, changing skies, shimmering plumage or gems in dazzling colours: these pieces celebrate the beauty of treasures gleaned during the journey. With her Eternity Sunset earrings, Alix Dumas captures the changing shades of the sky as dusk falls. Brilliant-cut diamonds interact with blue, pink, purple and yellow sapphires, either rose-cut or brilliant-cut. The stones follow the curves of a Möbius loop, whose infinite movement imbues the piece with an impression of constant fluidity.
Lorenz Bäumer is passionate about surfing and sweeping seascapes, and the ocean is a constant wellspring of inspiration for him. With the Aqua Horse ring, he gives pride of place to an exquisite Horse Conch pearl with warm hues, nestling in a translucent synthetic sapphire that brings to mind a precious stone caught in the foam.
Crafted in rose gold and paved with diamonds, the piece’s undulating lines hint at the movement of the waves.
The Shella Abalone medal by Min&ral glorifies the iridescent reflections of abalone. At its centre, this shell with ever-changing colours is magnified by a diamond while, around its edges, peridots and freshwater pearls extend its palette of greens and blues.
The journey continues as far as the rainforests, the backdrop to Olivia Dar’s flamboyant Parrot earrings. Their spectacular plumage blends vivid shades of blue, green and yellow. Entirely hand-embroidered, each piece combines beads and delicately twisted cannetille threads in meticulous texturing that mirrors the splendour of its namesake.
With the Frame ring, Rouvenat has dreamt up a setting designed to bring out the uniqueness of a 3-carat peridot sparkling with green tones. Mounted on a twisted body in recycled gold, the stone is framed within a geometric composition adorned with black ceramic and interspersed with six diamonds.
Yarn, fibres and interlacing venture forth from their textile domain and into the world of jewellery. Reinterpreted in precious or unexpected materials, they reveal the elaborate skill of craftsmanship and the beauty of hand-woven know-how. Hand-woven, the Hipanema Kaney cuff exemplifies the intricacy of craftsmanship through a generously filled composition. The silvery strands intertwine in a graphic interplay that gives the piece a striking presence.
With Van Den Abeele, cotton thread comes into its own as a jewellery material. Decorated with sterling silver strewn with diamonds, the Trancoso bracelet dovetails the lightness of textiles with the brilliance of stones.
Satellite’s Zaza bangle is a fresh take on the oversized spirit of the ‘80s featuring ample curves and sculptural interlacing. Fashioned from gold metallic resin, the house’s iconic material for several decades, this is a captivating piece with its fluid volumes that follow the wrist’s natural shape.
These jewels, in which lunar imagination meets contemporary design, display a fascinating array of curves, volumes and perspectives. Spirals, tubular lines and bold geometries create sculptural silhouettes reflecting infinite cascades of light.
Like a miniature galaxy drawn in a single flourish, the Maxi Spiral 2.0 earrings by Alt wrap around themselves infinitely. Made of solid 925 silver, these charismatic pieces hint at the hypnotic trajectory of a celestial body.
In an architectural style, Dinh Van’s Le Cube Diamant hoop earrings foreground the encounter of the circle and openwork cube, the hallmark of the House. The diamond perches just so, a perfect fit within this geometric setting. The movement then becomes more organic with the Kira double ring by Ōkan Studio. Its curves outline a free trajectory around the finger in a single stroke. This fluidity continues in the Embrace paved ring by Vever, whose slender white gold vine set with diamonds undulates like a wave of light.
Marie Mas reinvents the classic diamond tennis necklace by imbuing it with newfound freedom of movement.
Alternating supple and more rigid parts, the Radiant choker naturally complements the curves of the neck, while its line of diamonds floats in contact with the skin.
The Bonnie ring design by Signe Particulier, meanwhile, expresses only the most essential movement. This continuous loop, with an almost hypnotic simplicity, evokes an infinite rotation. As a counterpoint, Djula’s Graphique Double C ring stands out for its structured arrangement, where gold and diamonds showcase a constellation of geometric shapes.
Tracia’s Sky High earrings emulate the graceful curves of the Jardin du Luxembourg seen from above. They transpose this celestial geometry into clean, sleek lines, hand-crafted in gold.
Embellished with a faceted geometry, Statement’s Rockaway Mini Pyramid ring catches the light on each of its facets. Inspired by Brutalist architecture, it pairs the power of silver with the dazzle of natural diamonds in a carefully constructed composition.
The Edge ring by Viltier creates a symphony of contrasts in an instantly identifiable silhouette. Its perfectly controlled volumes, enhanced by diamonds set on the edge, appear like a subtle constellation revealed through movement.
Reinvented by Copin, the Arctic Dune signet ring exhibits a mineral landscape within a contemporary jewellery style. The ice-blue reflections of aquamarine mingle with the sparkle of diamonds to create a luminous topography.
The Colore Purple ring by Qitteri harnesses all the expressive potential of colour. Its amethyst sits atop a white gold ring, while its understated form is an invitation to mix and match combinations.
With its faceted volumes and deep black, the Suzan ring by Alex + Svet excels in the art of contrast. Inspired by the Russian avant-garde, it displays a retrofuturist aesthetic where shadow becomes matter and light becomes more subdued.
The Gypset cuff epitomises Bangle-Up’s distinctive boho-chic spirit through delicate cloisonné enamelwork. Its sand and golden tones conjure up the changing contours of a desert landscape, sculpted by light.
Nouvel Héritage revisits the codes of tailoring by designing a bracelet that exudes controlled elegance to a tee.
Fashioned in white gold and studded with diamonds, the Tuxedo Mood bangle is a charming blend of measured understatedness and an emphatic contemporary look.
With its stylised hooks suspended in the void, the Akillis Capture Me bracelet turns a symbol of seduction into a graphic language, where white gold and black titanium form a dramatic, magnetic silhouette.
The perforated ribbon bracelet by Le Gramme embodies the search for purity. Its open design, cut out of the material like a continuous line, is reminiscent of the timeless elemental figures that endure in our imaginations.
From line comes rhythm. The Equation bracelet by Maison Marcelle ripples with volumes and light, its sculpted gold modules following one another rhythmically, like a living architecture that naturally keeps pace with every gesture.
This adventure ends with the Via XXL earring by JEM. With its lavish curve and confident radiance, it shines forth like a contemporary star. Sculpted in white gold and cradling a diamond, its varying contrasts of scale and light endow it with an unmistakable solar profile.
