or Gübelin, the starting point of Tanzanian Sunrise lies inside its central gemstone. Examining a 22.08-carat red Tanzanian spinel under a microscope, the designers saw structures that suggested a dragonfly spreading its wings at dawn. That image became the basis for a sculptural necklace.
This unique piece places the cushion-shaped spinel at the centre of a composition of marquise-shaped rose spinels, pink sapphires and rubies totalling more than 50 carats. Carefully selected and arranged, these stones create a graduated palette that translates the imagined sunrise into colour.
Curved red gold elements extend like wings, carrying orange and pink spinels in pavé. Specially cut diamond baguettes, set in platinum, introduce contrasting flashes of light. The construction required more than 700 hours of work in Gübelin’s own jewellery atelier in Lucerne, bringing the microscopic inspiration into a wearable form.
A cabochon ruby occupies a prominent position between the central spinel and the diamond baguettes. This signature stone appears in every Gübelin jewel, expressing the house’s Deeply Inspired philosophy and its longstanding attachment to coloured gemstones.
The spinel received 96.2 Gübelin Points and the designation “exceptional” from the Gübelin Gem Lab. Its journey is recorded through Provenance Proof’s blockchain technology, while physical tracers identify the necklace’s origin and authenticity.
