fter long experience in the service of brands such as Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels and John Hardy, Guy Bedarida acquired a majority stake in Marina B in 2017 and became its artistic director. Today, he is behind its renewed success and the modern interpretation of its most iconic jewels.

Europa Star Jewellery: How did your first meeting with Marina Bulgari go?

Guy Bedarida: The first time I met Marina Bulgari was in 2017 in Monte-Carlo where she lived. I found myself face to face with a very elegant lady, extremely discreet and reserved. I was surprised by her unpretentious simplicity, even though she’s part of the Bulgari family. She had such allure, such class, even though she was just wearing jeans, trainers and a puffer jacket. We met at the Hôtel de Paris, where everybody was in heels and fur coats, but she said she wanted to feel comfortable. I found her very modern.

How would you define Marina B’s stylistic heritage?

Particularly opulent and rich, very bold and at the same time I’d define it as pure, exclusive and elegant. You certainly feel the Bulgari roots, but with an extra little “something”. Our archives hold 12,500 original models, magnificent, hand-painted gouaches that are a reminder of the pure tradition Place Vendôme represents. In addition, we have 800 metal jewel prototypes, most of them non-precious, but there are some in 18-karat gold. All these objects enable us to take inspiration from the exact proportions of Marina’s original jewels while at the same they are a unique testament to her style.

The Trisolina collection

What is it about her collections that makes them so timeless?

There are multiple aspects, but first and foremost I’d say a unique design combining the characteristic Bulgari style with hugely prolific creativity. In addition to that, a technique that I’d describe as particularly elaborate and sophisticated. Marina was a woman who created things for other women, so one of the key aspects of her jewels is without any doubt wearability. I took my inspiration from her way of interpreting what was in fashion in the 1980s, the heyday of Italian design and all things Italian-made, with the creativity, style and opulence typical of the time. The renewed interest in the 1980s makes Marina Bulgari’s jewels timeless, a bit like Art Deco.

How are you celebrating those aspects today, and how are you directing the collection towards more contemporary themes to attract Gen Zs and Millennials?

Among the many developed over the years, I’m really focusing on three iconic collections. The first without a doubt is Trisola, a three-dimensional, triangular Tubogas. It has the shape of a chestnut, which is also the signature shape of Marina B precious stones. The Trisola collection then evolved into Trisolina. The idea was to conserve the same appearance, but revisited with finer, more delicate jewels so they’d be easier to wear on a daily basis. The second collection is Onda, another iconic, signature collection of Marina B jewellery, which has given rise to Ondine; and the third is Triangoli in a modernised version called Triangolini. These collections, created by Marina in the 1980s and revisited by me, introduce smaller versions which are to the tastes of Gen Z and Millennials who want jewels they can wear every day, in particular designs they can stack, or mix and match.The new generation of Marina B jewels is a response to this demand.

Triangolini bangles

The Marina B brand has international appeal. Where does your client base come from and are there marked differences in taste between countries?

Our biggest market is the United States, where Marina was very well-positioned thanks to the success of her first collections, and where Italian-made design is still appreciated. The second is the Middle East, including the Gulf region, where Marina was well-known and where local taste values the very colourful, bold style of Italian design. In Europe, the brand has a particularly strong following among connoisseurs, experts and specialists.