By Cynthia Unninayar

The Mines to Market Conference offered the opportunity to meet several Indian companies specializing in coloured gemstones and jewellery. Below, are three examples, all based in Jaipur, that represent a large brand, a medium-size wholesale manufacturer, and an independent designer. Very different in structure, they all share the same passion for coloured gems, and they all create private label pieces for third parties.

Amrapali One of India’s largest jewellery companies. Amrapali is known for its modern interpretations of classic Indian jewellery, with creations that evoke India’s rich jewellery heritage, one that is embodied in its name, “Amrapali,” a famous and beautiful courtesan who lived during the time of Buddha. The company was founded in 1978 by Rajesh Ajmera and Rajiv Arora, two young graduates with a passion for ancient history and a vision for re-introducing long forgotten Indian jewellery designs and manufacturing techniques to the world. From a simple beginning, Amrapali now employs more than 1000 skilled artisans, who have created pieces worn by such notables as the Queen of Bhutan and the Maharani of the Jaipur Royal Family, plus a roster of movie stars and celebrities. In addition to its own pieces, in silver and gold, Amrapali has a thriving private label production. The brand has 30 same-name boutiques in India, as well as in London and New York. Its jewellery is also sold through retailers around the world. (www.amrapalijewels.com)

	Dhandia Exports Located in the heart of Jaipur’s Johari Bazaar, the marble entranceway of Dhandia Exports opens to a square courtyard revealing three floors, complete with gem cutting and jewellery manufacturing facilities and offices. The firm’s director, Manoj Dhandia, is the fifth generation in the gem industry, but in today’s age of specialization, he realized that the best way to expand his business was by providing tailored solutions to his customers. Thus, new designs, in both gold and silver, are added on a regular basis, providing maximum choice. Dhandia specializes in emeralds, but also deals in other fine gemstones, including jewellery made with such unusual gems as fluorite. Eighty percent of production are faceted and carved gemstones, with jewellery accounting for the remaining 20 percent. In addition to a good market in India, where they wholesale to retailers, Dhandia primarily exports to retailers and private label parties in Europe and Asia. Products are positioned in the mid-range, and vintage collections are especially popular. (www.dhandia.com)

Ankit Malpani The origins of this designer brand can be traced back 200 years to the glory days of Jaipur when an esteemed group of jewellers (Malpani, Surana, Mukeem, and Rawat) were invited by the Maharaja of Jaipur to form part of the newly established capital city of Rajasthan. A man of refined taste, the Maharaja recognized the talents and skills of the Delhi-based Malpani family and included them in his search for the best artisans. Fast-forwarding to 1975, the family company adopted the name Gems Export Center, and has since operated as a manufacturer, wholesaler, exporter, and private label manufacturer of fine gems and jewellery. Today, Ankit Malpani represents the sixth generation of this legacy and has branched out on his own to create a fine jewellery designer brand called Ankit Malpani. Drawing on his rich heritage, Ankit specializes in using colourful gemstones, accented with diamonds, set in gold, many of which are one-ofa- kind creations, as well as delightful nature-inspired pieces. (www.AnkitMalpani.com)