The first fair of the jewellery calendar, Vicenzaoro Winter, showcased Italian design excellence at its best in January under the theme, “Ordinary is over. Ordinary is back.”

The Show’s guiding theme, Ordinary is over. Ordinary is back, was explored during the course of the opening ceremony and throughout the many side events during the fair. The oxymoronic slogan was a sort of “manifesto” for the Italian industry to adopt new ways of doing business in light of the many changes in the industry and in consumer attitudes, and is part of the fair management’s road map for the industry in terms of creativity, innovation, craftsmanship, research, and the new media. “For us, innovation and creativity are not simple words to repeat for the sake of promoting the ‘Made in Italy’ label,” declared Roberto Ditri, president of Fiera di Vicenza. “They are words that guide our work every day.”

Another aspect of the fair’s promotional efforts is a newly created centre for trends. “We are the first and only trade fair in the world to unveil a research centre dedicated to revealing consumer attitudes and decoding trends,” added Ditri. “Trend Vision Jewellery + Forecasting will serve as a driving engine to promote industry savoir-faire, and will be an authority on research, design, and innovation, from products to lifestyle to consumer emotions.”

These were not the only changes at Vicenzaoro Winter 2012. Fair officials took the opportunity to introduce the new corporate image, whose goal is to promote the traditional Vicenzaoro brand—already famous for its worldwide brand awareness—and to highlight the seasonal nature of the events. The new names are “closer to the identity of fashion shows,” explained Ditri. While Italian design excellence was certainly on display among the 1403 exhibitors, there were also 410 foreign brands and companies from 31 countries, including eight new prestigious names: Brumani, Bapalal Keshavlal, Armas Jewelry, Cervera Barcelona, Swarovski Gems, Tirisi Jewellery, Effy Jewelers, and Institut Privé de Gemmologie Monaco. The special machinery section, T-Gold International, attracted 118 manufacturing companies (84 Italian and 34 foreign).

More than 27,000 buyers from 120 nations attended the shows, including more than 7,500 foreign buyers, up from the September 2011 event. While buyers from parts of Europe were fewer—expected given the financial and economic issues—other areas, namely Central/Eastern Europe, Brazil, Russia, and the Gulf region showed growth.

In terms of sales and new contacts, results were mixed. While many exhibitors reported very good to excellent responses, others were more nuanced in their reactions.

In terms of products, the rising price of gold continues to see an increase in the use of alternative materials, such as ceramic, steel, steel mixed with gold, wood, and of course silver. The white metal is now a staple with most major Italian brands, and a new treatment to reduce tarnish on silver was reported by Better Silver, an example of innovation by Italian manufacturers.

To counter high gold prices, an exotic solution was presented by 1K One Karat Gold, a company that has developed a proprietary 1K gold alloy consisting of 4.167 percent recoverable gold. “Manufacturers and designers now have a ductile and malleable material, that opens unimaginable stylistic and design prospects, shifting value from the raw material to the craftsmanship,” states the company. “The micro-structural characteristics of 1KT gold provide high resistance to oxidation, pollution, and perspiration, as well as ease of working. Weighing about 40 percent less than 18K gold, its lighter weight enables larger shapes and volumes. Its workability is superior to fusion and mechanical technology of alloys with higher gold content, while providing pieces of exceptional brightness.”

In terms of design and craftsmanship, Brazilian exhibitors Vianna and Brumani caught retailers’ attention with new, colourful, and original creations evoking their own Brazilian Styles.

Other interesting creations (too many to name all) included the intricate and elegant spider web bracelet created by Staurino, the marine world brooch by Nite, the delicate rose gold flower ring by Opera Omnia, and the striking ebony cuffs set with black diamonds by Raffaella Mannelli.

The next editions of the fair will be Vicenzaoro Spring, May 19 to 23, and Vicenzaoro Fall, September 5 to 8.

www.vicenzaoro.org